Grey Peas with Speck (Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi)
This is Latvia’s national dish. Historically, these large grey peas were a vital source of protein during the long winters after the meat stores ran low.
The Tradition: Today, it is the star of the Christmas Eve table. According to Latvian folklore, you must eat all the peas on your plate to ensure there are no tears in the coming year.
The Flavor: The peas are boiled and then topped with a savory mixture of fried speķis (smoked fatback or bacon) and onions. It is smoky, salty, and incredibly filling.
The Flavor: The peas are boiled and then topped with a savory mixture of fried speķis (smoked fatback or bacon) and onions. It is smoky, salty, and incredibly filling.
Speķa Pīrāgi (Bacon Turnovers)
You cannot attend a Latvian celebration without seeing a basket of these small, crescent-shaped pastries.
What they are: Soft yeast dough filled with finely diced smoky bacon and onions.
Pro Tip: They are best enjoyed warm, right out of the oven. While they come in various sizes, the "party style" versions are usually small enough to disappear in two bites!
Pro Tip: They are best enjoyed warm, right out of the oven. While they come in various sizes, the "party style" versions are usually small enough to disappear in two bites!
The "Latvian Power" Plate
If you want to eat like a local on a Tuesday, this is what you look for. It consists of:
Boiled potatoes, salted herring, and a generous scoop of cottage cheese (curd) mixed with sour cream and fresh dill.
How to eat it: Don’t eat the components separately! Latvians like to get a bit of everything on the fork at once for the perfect balance of creamy, salty, and fresh.
How to eat it: Don’t eat the components separately! Latvians like to get a bit of everything on the fork at once for the perfect balance of creamy, salty, and fresh.
Cold Beet Soup (Aukstā zupa)
When the temperature rises in summer, the streets of Riga turn pink!
The Ingredients: A refreshing base of kefir and pickled beets gives the soup its iconic bright pink color. It is packed with chopped cucumbers, boiled eggs, radishes, and an abundance of fresh dill and green onions.
Serving: It is almost always served chilled, often with a side of hot boiled potatoes to create a delicious temperature contrast.
Serving: It is almost always served chilled, often with a side of hot boiled potatoes to create a delicious temperature contrast.
Cidonija (Latvian Quince)
Often called the "Latvian Lemon," the Japanese Quince (Cidonija) is a local superfruit packed with Vitamin C.
The Taste: It has a unique, intense sweet-and-sour profile.
How to enjoy it: Look for it as a warm tea in winter, a refreshing syrup-based drink in summer, or as "candied" dried fruit slices that are popular as a healthy snack.
How to enjoy it: Look for it as a warm tea in winter, a refreshing syrup-based drink in summer, or as "candied" dried fruit slices that are popular as a healthy snack.
Iconic Latvian Beverages
Kvass: A traditional fermented drink made from rye bread. It is naturally bubbly, slightly sweet, and has a distinct malty aroma. It’s the ultimate thirst-quencher!
Hot Black Balsam Drink: For a chilly evening, try a "Black Currant Balsam Cocktail." It’s made by mixing warm black currant juice with the famous Riga Black Balsam (a herbal liqueur), garnished with slices of orange, apple, and a cinnamon stick.
Hot Black Balsam Drink: For a chilly evening, try a "Black Currant Balsam Cocktail." It’s made by mixing warm black currant juice with the famous Riga Black Balsam (a herbal liqueur), garnished with slices of orange, apple, and a cinnamon stick.
Where to Eat: Top 3 Recommendations in Riga
If you want to try these dishes exactly as the locals do, head to these three iconic spots in the capital:
1. Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs (The Authentic Experience)
Located in an ancient wine cellar in Old Riga, ALA is the best place to feel the spirit of Latvia.
Why go: It’s famous for its massive portions of Grey Peas with Speck and its incredible atmosphere. You’ll often find live folk music and over 20 local beers on tap.
Must try: Their "Farmer's Breakfast" or the traditional bean dishes.
Must try: Their "Farmer's Breakfast" or the traditional bean dishes.
2. Milda (The Traditional & Refined Choice)
If you are looking for a more intimate and slightly more modern take on Baltic cuisine, Milda is a gem.
Why go: They specialize in authentic recipes from Latvia and Lithuania. The service is excellent, and the presentation of traditional dishes like Potatoes with Curd & Herring is beautiful.
Must try: Their dumplings and the "Milda’s" take on traditional soups.
Must try: Their dumplings and the "Milda’s" take on traditional soups.
3. LIDO (The Local Favorite)
You haven't truly visited Latvia until you've been to Lido. It’s a bistro-style restaurant that is loved by families and travelers alike for its "buffet" style layout.
Why go: It is the best place to see all the dishes mentioned above at once. You can see exactly what you’re getting—from the Pink Soup to various types of Pīrāgi. It’s affordable, fast, and very delicious.
Must try: The fried potatoes (they are legendary) and a glass of their house-made Kvass.
Must try: The fried potatoes (they are legendary) and a glass of their house-made Kvass.
